How to Make a PCB With a CNC Router
This guide is for engineers who want a working board in a day, not a two-week fab queue. We cover isolation routing, depth control, feeds and speeds, drilling, and the cases where you should not mill at all.

In this article
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Key takeaways
Why engineers choose a CNC router PCB workflow
A CNC router makes a PCB by cutting away the copper that should not be there. The tool follows a toolpath generated from your Gerber or DXF file, and the remaining copper becomes the traces and pads. There is no etchant, no UV exposure, and no photoresist to develop in a darkroom.
The obvious win is speed. A two-layer control board of 100 × 80 mm takes roughly 25 to 45 minutes of cutting on a hobby-class router, plus 10 minutes of setup. You can iterate on a layout three times in one day and hold the physical board in your hand.
The second win is material freedom. You can mill FR-4, but also Rogers laminates, aluminium-backed boards, and thin copper-clad sheets that a normal fab will not touch in small quantities. For RF test coupons and antenna prototypes this matters more than price.
- 1No chemicalsNo ferric chloride, no disposal paperwork, no fume hood.
- 2Fast iterationChange the layout, re-run the toolpath, cut again.
- 3Odd laminatesPTFE, Rogers, aluminium core, and flexible copper-clad.
- 4In-house dataDesign files never leave your building.
Design rules that fit a CNC router PCB
Set your CAD rules before you draw anything. For a typical 1 oz (0.035 mm) copper board with a 30° V-bit, use 0.3 mm minimum trace and 0.3 mm minimum gap. That combination is comfortable on almost any router with a stiff gantry. Push to 0.2 mm only if the machine has ball screws and the bed is genuinely flat.
Keep copper pour away from the board edge by at least 0.8 mm. The V-bit leaves a burr at the perimeter, and a pour that touches the edge will short against a metal fixture or a mounting screw. Add two 3 mm tooling holes outside the outline for dowel pins.
For double-sided boards, mirror the bottom layer and keep all vias as plain drilled holes. Do not design plated vias unless you own a plating line. Solder a short wire through each via, or place a via on both sides of a pad and bridge it with solder.
- 1Trace and gap0.3 mm both is the safe default; 0.2 mm needs a rigid machine.
- 2Copper to edge0.8 mm minimum, 1.5 mm if the fixture is metal.
- 3PadsAdd 0.2 mm to the drill diameter for the annular ring.
- 4Text1.0 mm stroke width minimum to stay legible after milling.
Hold the blank flat or nothing else works
Copper-clad sheet is never as flat as it looks. A 1.6 mm FR-4 panel can bow 0.2 mm across 150 mm, which is six times the copper thickness. If you clamp the corners only, the middle lifts and the bit cuts air on one pass and buries itself on the next.
The fix is a spoilboard plus double-sided tape or a vacuum table. Tape the blank to a flat MDF or phenolic spoilboard, press it down, and let it sit for a few minutes. For repeated runs, cut a shallow pocket in the spoilboard so the blank drops in with 0.05 mm clearance.
Never clamp directly on the copper surface. The clamp marks become shorts and the pressure bows the board. Clamp on the spoilboard, not the workpiece.
- 1Spoilboard firstFace it flat with a 20 mm fly cutter before each session.
- 2Tape or vacuumNitto tape for one-offs, vacuum for repeat runs.
- 3Pocket fixture0.05 mm clearance, 0.5 mm deep, for batch work.
Tooling: V-bits, end mills and drills
Isolation routing uses a V-bit, usually 30° included angle with a 0.1 mm tip. The V shape gives you a cut width that grows with depth, so a 0.1 mm depth gives roughly 0.15 mm cut width and 0.2 mm depth gives about 0.25 mm. That is why depth control matters so much.
For clearing larger copper areas, switch to a 0.8 mm or 1.0 mm two-flute carbide end mill. Run it at 18,000 to 24,000 rpm and 300 to 500 mm/min in FR-4. Higher feed avoids the rubbing that dulls carbide in seconds. Add a finishing pass at 0.05 mm depth to clean the floor.
Drills are standard carbide PCB drills, 0.8 mm to 1.2 mm for through-hole parts, 0.6 mm for small vias. Run them at 15,000 to 20,000 rpm with a peck cycle of 0.3 mm per peck. Retract fully between pecks so chips clear the flutes. A clogged flute snaps a 0.6 mm drill instantly.
- 1V-bit 30°0.1 mm tip, 0.05–0.12 mm depth for isolation.
- 2End mill 0.8–1.0 mmFor copper clearing, 300–500 mm/min in FR-4.
- 3Drills0.6–1.2 mm carbide, peck 0.3 mm, full retract.
- 4SparesKeep five V-bits on hand; FR-4 abrasive glass dulls them fast.
When a CNC router PCB is the wrong choice
Milling cannot produce plated through-holes. If your board has 200 vias and a fine-pitch BGA, hand-soldering wire through every via is not a plan. Send it to a fab. The same applies to any design with 0.15 mm traces or impedance-controlled differential pairs.
Solder mask is the second limit. You can apply UV-curable mask by hand, but registration over small pads is poor and the result looks nothing like a production board. If the board will be handled, sprayed, or used in a humid environment, mask matters.
The third limit is volume. Once you need 20 or more identical boards, the per-board time on a router stops making sense. A fab will deliver better registration, plated holes and mask for less total effort. Milling is a prototyping and repair tool, not a production line.
- 1Fine pitch0.5 mm pitch and below needs a fab.
- 2Many viasPlated holes are not available on a router.
- 3Production volumeAbove roughly 20 boards, switch to a fab.
Step by step: how to make a PCB with a CNC router
- 11. Export and check the GerberExport top copper, bottom copper, drill file and outline as separate Gerbers. Open them in a viewer and confirm the units are metric and the origin is at the board corner. A wrong origin shifts every toolpath by the offset and wastes a blank.
- 22. Generate isolation toolpathsIn your CAM tool, set isolation to 0.3 mm with two passes at 0.05 mm depth each. Add a third pass only if you need wider clearance around pads. Check the simulation for any trace narrower than your design rule before you cut.
- 33. Face the spoilboard and mount the blankFly-cut the spoilboard flat, then tape the copper-clad sheet down. Press from the center outward to push air out from under the tape. Let it sit 5 minutes. Measure flatness with a dial indicator; anything over 0.05 mm across the work area needs re-taping.
- 44. Zero the Z axis on the copperTouch off on the copper surface itself, not the spoilboard. Use a continuity probe or a 0.05 mm feeler. Then set the isolation depth to 0.05 mm for the first pass. If the first pass does not fully clear the copper, add 0.02 mm rather than doubling the depth.
- 55. Cut the isolation passesRun at 18,000–24,000 rpm and 200–350 mm/min for a 30° V-bit. Listen for a change in pitch; a rise means the bit is rubbing instead of cutting. Vacuum the chips between passes so they do not drag under the tool and scratch the copper.
- 66. Clear the copper pour and drillSwitch to a 0.8 mm end mill at 0.1 mm depth per pass for large pours. Then drill at 15,000–20,000 rpm with a 0.3 mm peck and full retract. Drill after routing, not before, so the burr from drilling does not interfere with depth sensing.
- 77. Inspect, deburr and testDeburr the edges with 800-grit paper on a flat block. Check continuity between every net with a multimeter, then check for shorts between adjacent traces. Re-cut any trace that reads open before you solder a single component.
CNC router PCB milling vs chemical etching
Use this when you are deciding which route fits the board in front of you.
| Factor | CNC router milling | Chemical etching |
|---|---|---|
| Minimum trace and gap | 0.2–0.3 mm | 0.1 mm with good artwork |
| Setup time for one board | 20–40 minutes | 60–90 minutes |
| Chemicals and disposal | None | Etchant, resist, developer |
| Double-sided registration | Dowel pins, about 0.05 mm | Phototool alignment, about 0.1 mm |
| Plated through-holes | Not possible without plating | Standard at any fab |
| Solder mask | Manual or none | Screen printed, any colour |
| Best batch size | 1–20 boards | 20 boards and up |
| Odd laminates | PTFE, Rogers, aluminium core | Limited by etchant compatibility |
Frequently asked questions
What spindle speed should I use to make a PCB with a CNC router?
For a 30° V-bit in FR-4, run 18,000 to 24,000 rpm at 200 to 350 mm/min. Below 15,000 rpm the tool rubs and dulls quickly; the glass fibers in FR-4 are abrasive.
For a 0.8 mm end mill clearing copper, keep 18,000 to 24,000 rpm but raise the feed to 300 to 500 mm/min. If you hear a high-pitched squeal, the feed is too low.
How deep should the isolation cut be?
Start at 0.05 mm. That is enough to cut through 0.035 mm of copper with a small margin. If copper remains, add 0.02 mm and re-run. Do not jump to 0.15 mm.
Deep cuts widen the trace gap, weaken the bond to the substrate, and shorten tool life. Consistency across the board matters more than a single deep pass.
Can I mill a double-sided PCB on a hobby router?
Yes, if you use dowel pins for registration. Drill two 3 mm holes in the blank and in the spoilboard, then flip the board around those pins rather than the edge.
Edge flipping accumulates error from the blank not being square. Pin flipping typically holds 0.05 mm registration, which is fine for 0.4 mm traces.
Why does my router cut through the board on one side?
The blank is bowed. A 1.6 mm panel can lift 0.2 mm in the middle, and a fixed Z zero then cuts too deep at the high point and too shallow at the low point.
Re-tape the blank from the center outward, or cut a shallow pocket in the spoilboard so the panel sits flat. Check flatness with a dial indicator before every run.
What is the smallest trace I can mill reliably?
On a rigid machine with ball screws and a flat bed, 0.2 mm trace and gap is repeatable. On a belt-driven hobby router, stay at 0.3 mm or wider.
The limit is not the bit tip, it is machine rigidity and board flatness. Runout of 0.02 mm already eats 10% of a 0.2 mm trace.
Can a CNC router cut aluminium-backed PCBs?
Yes, but slow down. Aluminium-backed boards cut at roughly half the feed of FR-4, around 150 to 250 mm/min with a 0.8 mm end mill, and they need a lubricant or air blast to clear chips.
Aluminium is soft and gummy. Without chip clearance the tool welds material to the flute and snaps. Use a single-flute end mill if you have one.
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