3D Printing Troubleshooting: All SLA Issues and Solutions (2)

3D Printing Troubleshooting: A Collection of All Problems and Solutions (FDM and SLA)

I think you have encountered many printing failures, such as warping of printed parts, print bed sticking, layer shifting, etc.3D printing errors and other problems, today, based on our 3D printer troubleshooting experience, Mohou.com has compiled the most comprehensive guide to diagnosing and fixing common 3D printing problems related to FDM and SLA technology.

YEARS3D printing issues:Printing failed

1、3D Printer Troubleshooting: Print Not Adhering to Print Plate

Adjust print position

If your printer uses a tilted resin body as part of its mechanism (which itself is a design choice to mitigate peeling forces), this will create a gradient on the print plate on which the force coat will vary from very strong to very weak.

Placing the print in an area of ​​the build plate with less peel force can go some way to helping the print adhere well to the build plate, in addition to reducing stress on taller parts that are independent or supported.

Horizontal cylinder

According to your3DPrinter that can automatically or manually relevel your cylinder or bed. It’s true The main methods for troubleshooting 3D printing issues on FDM 3D molding machines are also applicable to SLA.3D printingmachine. If you find that only part of the print is sticking to the print plate, it is likely that this part of the print plate is not adhering tightly to the cylinder interface layer when firing the laser. Another telltale sign is that after the print is completed or canceled, a flat disk of cured resin remains stuck to the interface layer inside the vat.

Find bed leveling instructions or advanced calibration steps for your printer and try them.

check the temperature

It’s possible that your print settings are close to a successful print, but the resin hasn’t fully cured yet. If the resin is too cold, it may not harden well enough and therefore not adhere well to the printing plate. Try heating the resin and the print chamber somehow (placing the printer in a warmer room may work).

Check the resin tank interface layer

a lot SLA 3D printers all use a thin layer of gel-like substance (PDMS is common) at the bottom of the acrylic resin tank as an interface layer. On a bottom-up resin printer (which is a common approach on “cheap” machines), the print plate pushes the interface layer up, capturing a thin film of resin for setting up each layer. Inevitably, ghosting and general wear and tear can cause poor printing results over time, rendering certain areas of the plate unprintable. The solution is: replace the interface layer with your own material (solar silicone is a frequently used material), if there is a new interface layer, buy a new interface layer, if not, buy a new one tank. Or continue placing the print in an undamaged area of ​​the tank.

filter resin

After printing several times, you may notice small pieces of resin floating inside the resin bucket.theyWill prevent the laser from hardening fresh resin.mostIt is recommended to comb your vat after each print to not only capture these particles and remove them, but also to remove any resin stuck to the bottom of the vat.

Remix Resin

If you followed the steps above to filter out the resin particles that interfere with printing, but then let the machine sit for a few days, it is possible that the resin has settled and the heavier pigments of the colored resin have been deposited in their own layer, and as the printing progresses, otherwise the printing effect will be inconsistent.

Sand the printing plate

Sometimes,The printing plates that come with SLA 3D printers can be a little too smooth, meaning that only in the most perfect conditions will the print adhere properly to the plate. You can remove this imperfection by lightly sanding the print panel with medium-grit sandpaper. The printing plate must then be properly cleaned, otherwise a large number of particles will be added to the resin, affecting the printing effect.

2、3D Printer Troubleshooting: Print/supportpart falls or moves

Large area hollow printing

For models that have a large surface area when printed, consider hollowing them out (and adding drainage holes) if possible.

This means that each time you change layers, a thinner outline of the model breaks away, rather than forcing a large flat surface to break away from the bottom of the resin tank.

This requires much less force and is not easy toimpressiondisassemble,But if you use modeling/Add drainage holes to the slicing software, the effect will be better. If you don’t add drainage holes to the solid parts of your print, uncured resin will build up inside, which not only is an expensive waste, but defeats the purpose of cutting first.

strengthen support

If your model seems to print well, but you think peeling forces are still the cause of the print failure, the next recommended step is to reinforce your supports. Increase the width of the tips by a few millimeters where the supports meet the printed part, and add support rods between the supports if you don’t already have one.

You might also consider adding supports if you don’t mind a little more post-processing cleanup once your print has cured.

examine/Secure the printing platform

The print platform may not be properly secured. As the printer advances layer by layer on the platform, slight positional deviations caused by platform impacts can cause layers to misalign and separate (delamination).

Adjust print direction

Normally,SLA printing issues can be resolved by better orienting the model. Not only does this improve print quality, but it also reduces stress in the mold, increasing the chances of your model being successfully printed.

For optimal model orientation, you should consider the following:

position：Even if everything is not upwards SLA 3D printers, and many of them, use some form of peel mechanism to separate the print plate from the bottom of the resin vat when it is repositioned on the Z axis for the next print layer . Depending on the method used by the printer, the intensity of this peeling force can vary across the entire surface of the printing plate. If this is the case and your printer is aware of it, you can increase the risk of stress on the print by placing it in an area with less peeling force.

Supportive overhang：And As with FDM 3D printing, significant overhangs require some form of support for successful printing. For some 3D models, you can reduce the need for supports by adjusting the angle of the model, reducing the overhang angle so that it can be printed without supports.

minimum point (or minimum value)：Much like overhangs that require support, minimal dots are isolated parts of the print that have no direct connection to the main body of the print. Imagine a person holding their arms at their sides and printing in the correct way–The fingertips will be considered the smallest point as they begin to print separately from the body, with the arms materializing on them and connecting at shoulder level. This type of miniature requires support, otherwise there is a high risk of it breaking and floating in the resin tank.

Alternatively, you can eliminate the need to support the mini by adjusting the orientation of the model (turn the person over and print the head first, and the mini will disappear as the body shrinks down to the arms and finally to the feet ).

depression：The model you plan to print may have gaps at the print slot, especially if it is a large model that has been hollowed out. This feature can cause major printing problems because the print must overcome excessive peeling forces (which may create damage during the printing process).

if The “suction cup” is shallow and adjusting the angle of the print is enough to reduce the suction effect to a point where it does not damage the print.

Another solution is to add drainage holes to your model in your favorite modeling software, which will allow the resin to drain as each layer changes.