Cura offers a range of settings designed to target specific areas of 3D printing. These settings include, but are not limited to, speed, support, and traffic settings. With these adjustments you can adjust the slicer to get the best final printing result.
For great prints, a well laid out first layer is essential as it greatly reduces the risk of errors in subsequent layers. If there is a problem with the first layer, it will most likely affect the rest of the print.
In this article we will coverCura’s initial layer settings. We’ll cover the basics of the first layer and give you some suggestions for initial layer configuration values.
UltiMaker Cura: Feature-rich
picture1：UltiMaker Cura has so many settings that it has a “toggle settings visibility” menu (Source: Myles Vendel via All3DP)
The initial layers of the 3D print form the basis of the entire model and help ensure that the model is firmly attached to the printer bed. The primary function of the first layer is to adhere well to the construction surface. If the first layer of the model does not adhere properly to the bed, the rest of the print may not turn out correctly.
UltiMaker Cura has over 50 different settings related to the initial coat, controlling build plate adhesion, support and fan speed, down to the thickness of individual coating lines. Each parameter will have different optimal values depending on the model and material of the 3D printer.
For example, withCompared to 3D printers equipped with DiamondBack nozzles and heated beds, 3D printers with brass nozzles and without heated beds require slower print speeds and less cooling. Also note that these settings should be used in conjunction with other settings to ensure the clarity of the first layer, such as choosing the right temperature.
height and width
picture2：Factors such as too low an initial layer height can cause the elephant’s foot phenomenon (source:jacksknight via Reddit）
These two parameters control the initial layer“extrusion”. Both parameters are equally important to obtain a good first coat.
The height of the initial layer determines its ability to adhere to the print bed. Lower values improve adhesion, but may also make the layer too flat. Therefore, it may not be strong enough to support the subsequent weight of the rest of the print. This results in what is commonly called an elephant’s leg. It can also clog the nozzles if the print bed is not properly leveled.
An initial layer height slightly higher than the rest of the print provides better adhesion and helps maintain the intended size of the print. A higher initial layer height also ensures that any bed level irregularities are handled evenly and there is less chance of damaging the print plate through scratches.
Different materials may also require different distances between the nozzle and the bed. Some printers will automaticallyThe Z-leveling process takes this into account, but otherwise filaments such as PETG may require a slight increase in initial layer height to prevent the nozzle from sticking to the very sticky plastic.
The width of the initial layer is also important because it controls the amount of material flowing from the nozzle into the first layer. A wider initial layer width means more material flows from the nozzle, helping to ensure the material adheres evenly to the bed. Therefore, all the initial layer lines should stick together well.
Fight against elephant feet
UltiMaker Cura adds new features to help combat annoying, print-destroying bellbottoms. You can reduce the elephant’s foot bulge by reducing the values of the Initial Layer Outer Wall Flow, Initial Layer Inner Wall Flow, and Initial Layer Lower Flow.
generalize
Initial height from the ground: You can keep it at the diameter of the printer nozzle, taking into account the reasons for increase or decrease mentioned previously.45-75%. (For a layer height of 0.2mm, a good average value is also 0.2mm.)
Initial layer width:ForFor a layer height of 0.2mm on a 0.4mm nozzle, set this value to 100%, with a width of 0.3mm and a height of 0.2mm. This is the default “draft” setting for FDM 3D printers.
speed
picture3：Slow down to improve accuracy (source:Myles Vendel via All3DP; Model: 3DxUnlimited via Printables)
Layers should be printed at a speed that allows the extruded material to cool sufficiently while still allowing it enough time to spread onto the build surface. The material must be laid evenly and adhere well to the bed. Both of these things are risky if the speed is too high and you may also experience under-extrusion.
Similar to initial layer height, different filaments perform better at different speed ranges.Filaments like PLA and ABS are less speed sensitive and therefore print much faster than materials like PETG, which tend to print more easily at slower speeds.
The speed at which the nozzle moves during this time is also important. If your model has multiple parts and the nozzle needs to move a lot in the initial layer, it helps to maintain a slow movement speed. This helps keep the first layer smooth because there won’t be any sudden jerks. Otherwise, the edges of some sections could easily come loose from the bed.
generalize
initial layer speed: should be inBetween 20 and 30 mm/sec.
Initial layer moving speed: The initial layer is80-100 mm/s^2, achieving a perfect balance between speed and quality.
temperature
picture4：A little extra heat can go a long way (source:Myles Vendel via All3DP; Model: 3DxUnlimited via Printables)
The correct temperature of the initial layer is essential to its success. These adjustments focus on the nozzle and the bed. Let’s look at them one by one.
The initial layer temperature is important because it controls how the plastic flows from the nozzle. Higher nozzle temperatures mean the filament will melt enough (which will lower the viscosity so it flows better). On the other hand, lower temperatures can cause the first layer to underextrude. Therefore, the slightly higher temperature ensures a smooth and uniform flow of material in the first layer.
The initial bed temperature controls the bed temperature of the first layers.PLA does not require a heated bed because it reacts little to temperature differences. However, ABS and PETG require a heated bed. ABS and PETG of course also require higher nozzle temperatures than PLA.
The higher the bed temperature in the initial layer, the warmer the environment and the material will not be thermally shocked. This improves the quality of the first layer and also avoids any warping or curling problems.
For example, if you useFor printing with PLA, a good starting point for temperature might be a nozzle temperature of 210°C and a bed surface temperature of 60°C (although these could be between 180-220°C respectively and 20-60°C). In this case, a first layer nozzle temperature between 215 and 220°C may be advantageous and a bed surface temperature between 50 and 60°C. For more specific advice, see our article on optimal printing temperatures.
generalize
Initial printing temperature layer:It’s best to set it higher than the rest of the print5-10°C.
Build the initial panel temperature layer:Depending on material and printer limitations, you may want to keep this value atBetween 50°C and 110°C.
Fans and patterns
picture5：Initial layer patterns (left to right): straight, concentric, zigzag (Source:Myles Vendel via All3DP; Model: ItsMaxify via Printables)
When you lay down the first layer, you want to make sure it cools properly. We know that higher printing temperatures result in even material flow. However, if we suddenly cool this plastic with a fan, the material will cool unevenly. This causes some parts of the first layer to be hot and others to be cold. Therefore, to ensure that the first layer has enough time to cool and lay properly, you should turn off the fan while laying the first layer.
Cura also offers the ability to change the initial layer pattern. You can choose from linear, concentric or zigzag patterns. This setting changes the direction of the filament lines on the first layer, which can have a slight impact on the strength of the part and change the appearance of the 3D printed underside.
generalize
Initial fan speed: Set the initial layer to0% to maximize build plate adhesion.
Initial layer of bottom pattern: Lines, zigzags or concentrics, make sure you choose what suits you best;3D printing options.
Build plaque adhesion
picture6：The edge is useful for taller pieces that have less contact with the bed (source:Myles Vendel via All3DP；模型：sunshinemakes via Printables）
As we all know,Filaments such as ABS and PETG are more difficult to adhere to the build plate than PLA. Fortunately, the following settings can really improve first coat adhesion, and each setting works differently to help achieve a good first coat:
The skirt is the perimeter of the nozzle that prints before starting the actual model. The skirt is not connected to the model and its function is to activate the nozzle. This helps ensure that the material flows evenly throughout the rest of the printing process.
The edge is similar to the skirt but is in contact with the model. It effectively increases the surface area of the first layer. This allows prints with less surface area to adhere better to the bed.
The raft is essentially a layer below the model. The nozzle first prints the raft, then prints the model on the raft. This makes it easier to glue smaller pieces together. However, printing rafts is time-consuming and wastes a lot of material. In other words, it should only be used when necessary.
First Layer Support Settings
picture7：You can even add an edge to the backing! (source:Myles Vendel via All3DP; Model: 3DxUnlimited via Printables)
Due to the number of settings for the first layer of an object, it is often easy to overlook the few options available for the first layer of another important printed part: supports.
UltiMaker Cura offers several settings for standard and tree media to improve adhesion and media quality. After all, if the supports fail, the 3D printing will fail.
Minimum Floor Support Area: This option allows you to set the size of the tree supports on the build plate.The minimum surface area of the “trunk” or main branch. A larger minimum area for the main branches means more material is used, but the overall strength of the tree is also higher.
Support Soil Thickness: This setting allows you to specify the thickness of the soil under the tree supports in millimeters. set to“0” defines the hollow shaft supports at the bottom.
Enable Support Edges: Checking this box will create edges for standard supports and tree supports, increasing the adhesion of the support to the bed. The width of this edge can be set by setting the measured width or number of lines in Support Edge width.
Daguang focuses on providing solutions such as precision CNC machining services (3-axis, 4-axis, 5-axis machining), CNC milling, 3D printing and rapid prototyping services.
