The Main Differences Between ABS and PC Filaments for 3D Printing
ABS and PC filaments sit close together on paper and far apart on the machine. This page compares heat deflection, tensile strength, warping, drying and post-processing so you can pick the right one before you slice the file.

ABS vs PC: quick comparison
Values are typical ranges for desktop FDM printing, not datasheet guarantees.
| Property | ABS | PC |
|---|---|---|
| Glass transition | About 105 °C | About 147 °C |
| Tensile strength | 38–50 MPa | 55–75 MPa |
| Bed temperature | 90–110 °C | 110–130 °C |
| Nozzle temperature | 230–250 °C | 270–310 °C |
| Warping risk | High on large flat parts | Higher, enclosure mandatory |
| Drying before print | 2–4 h at 70–80 °C | 4–6 h at 80–90 °C |
| Post-processing | Acetone vapor smoothing | Sanding and machining only |
| Best for | General housings, jigs | Load-bearing brackets, hot parts |
Why ABS and PC filaments behave differently under heat
ABS is a styrene-based terpolymer. Its glass transition sits near 105 °C, so a printed bracket starts to soften once it stays near that temperature. PC is a polycarbonate chain with bulky bisphenol groups, and its glass transition lands near 147 °C. That 40 °C gap decides most material choices in practice.
The gap shows up in service, not on the spool. An ABS enclosure that sits beside a 90 °C motor will creep and lose bolt preload over a few hundred hours. The same part in PC holds shape until it passes 130 °C, which is why under-hood brackets and lamp housings often move to PC.
Stiffness follows the same pattern. PC prints typically reach 55–75 MPa tensile strength against 38–50 MPa for ABS. PC is also more notch-sensitive, so a sharp internal corner that survives in ABS can crack in PC under the same load.
- 1Above 100 °C continuousChoose PC. ABS will creep.
- 2Room temperature onlyABS is cheaper and prints faster.
- 3Sharp internal cornersAdd a fillet or PC will crack.
Warping, bed adhesion and enclosure needs
Both materials shrink as they cool, and both pull off the bed if the chamber is cold. ABS shrinks roughly 0.7 percent and PC closer to 0.8 percent. On a 200 mm part that is about 1.5 mm of movement, enough to lift corners and split layers.
PC needs the hotter setup. Nozzle 270–310 °C, bed 110–130 °C, and an actively heated chamber near 60–80 °C. ABS runs at 230–250 °C nozzle and 90–110 °C bed, and a passive enclosure usually holds it. If you cannot close the machine, print neither material.
Bed adhesion is the second failure point. ABS sticks to a PEI sheet or a slurry of ABS and acetone. PC bonds best to PEI at 120 °C or to a glue stick layer that doubles as a release agent. Let both cool to room temperature before removing the part. Pulling a warm PC part off a PEI sheet tears the sheet.
- 1Cold chamberCorner lift and layer splits on both.
- 2Large flat geometrySplit the model or switch to machining.
- 3Removing warm partsWait for full cooldown.
Drying ABS and PC filaments before printing
ABS absorbs little moisture and often prints fine straight from a sealed bag. PC is the opposite. Polycarbonate hydrolyzes at nozzle temperature, and wet pellets break down into shorter chains. You hear it as a popping sound and see it as bubbles, a rough surface and weak layer bonds.
Dry PC for 4–6 h at 80–90 °C in a dedicated dryer, then print from a dry box. ABS needs 2–4 h at 70–80 °C only if the spool has been open in humid air for weeks. A food dehydrator works for both if it holds temperature within a few degrees.
Test before a long print. Push 100 mm of filament through a hot nozzle and watch the extrusion. Crackles mean more drying time. Silent extrusion means the spool is ready.
- 1PC left on the machine overnightDry it again before the next run.
- 2No dryer availableBuy PC in vacuum-sealed 0.5 kg spools.
Post-processing, tolerances and when to stop printing
ABS has one advantage PC cannot match. Acetone vapor smooths an ABS surface to a glossy finish in 20–40 minutes, and it welds layer lines together. PC resists acetone, so you are limited to sanding, tumbling or machining.
Tolerances are the harder limit. FDM holds roughly ±0.3 mm on a well-tuned machine, and warp moves critical features further. If a part needs ±0.005 mm, a Ra 0.8–1.6 μm finish or a flatness callout, no filament choice fixes it.
That is where we come in. GreatLight machines ABS and PC stock directly, along with POM, PEEK, PMMA and PA, on 127 CNC machines across three plants in Dongguan and Singapore. A printed prototype proves fit. A machined part holds the tolerance.
- 1Cosmetic coversPrint in ABS, smooth with acetone.
- 2Functional bracketsPrint for fit, then machine in PC.
- 3Tight toleranceSkip printing, go straight to CNC.
Which filament should you pick?
Pick ABS if the part stays under 90 °C, you want an easy print and a smooth acetone finish. Pick PC if the part carries load above 100 °C or needs maximum stiffness, and you have a heated chamber and a dryer. If the drawing shows ±0.005 mm or a flatness callout, machine it instead of printing it.
ABS and PC filaments: common questions
Can ABS and PC be printed on the same machine?
Yes, if the hotend reaches 310 °C and the bed reaches 130 °C. PC needs the higher end of both ranges plus an active chamber. Switching materials means purging thoroughly and re-leveling, because PC likes a slightly larger nozzle gap.
Does PC always need an enclosure?
For any part larger than about 50 mm, yes. Small PC parts can survive in still air, but the top layers cool faster than the core and the part curls. An enclosure at 60–80 °C removes most of that risk.
How do I know my PC filament is wet?
Listen during extrusion. Crackling or popping means absorbed water is boiling at the nozzle. The printed surface looks cloudy and bubbly, and layer bonds fail under light hand pressure.
Is ABS stronger than PC?
No. PC prints reach 55–75 MPa tensile strength against 38–50 MPa for ABS, and PC holds stiffness to a higher temperature. ABS wins on impact toughness at room temperature and on surface finish.
Can I acetone-smooth PC prints?
No. Polycarbonate resists acetone, so vapor smoothing does nothing. Use sanding, bead blasting or a light CNC skim cut if the surface matters.
When should I machine the part instead of printing it?
When the drawing calls for ±0.005 mm, a Ra 0.8–1.6 μm finish or a flatness tolerance. FDM holds roughly ±0.3 mm at best, and warping pushes that wider on large parts. Send the STEP file and we will quote both routes.
Send the file, get a machining quote in 12 hours
Upload your STEP or STL file and we will review it against both routes: printed prototype or machined production part. Quotation and free DFM analysis come back within 12 hours, no minimum order quantity.
12-hour quote100% inspectionNo minimum order quantityNDA on request