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Additive manufacturing guide

3D Printing Instructions: Things to Know for Best Results

This page covers the process decisions that actually change a printed part: build orientation, layer height, wall count, hole compensation, and resin cleanup. It is written for design engineers and buyers who already have an STL and need the first article to fit and hold up.

FDM, SLA and SLSOrientation and supportsTolerance guidance
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What 3D printing instructions change, and what they cannot

Most failed prints are not machine faults. They come from a handful of settings and one geometry decision, and the print file usually shows the problem before the machine starts. Layer height controls the vertical step and the surface you will feel with your thumb. Wall count controls how much solid material sits behind that surface. Orientation decides which faces need support and where the layer lines run.

No set of 3D printing instructions will turn a printed part into a machined one. FDM parts carry visible layer lines and slightly weaker bonds between layers. Resin parts hold fine detail but stay brittle under impact. When the part carries a bearing load, seals against a fluid, or threads into metal, print it to check fit, then plan a machining pass for the production version.

  • 1
    Print for form and fitGeometry, clearance and assembly checks are fast and cheap in plastic.
  • 2
    Machine for functionLoad paths, sealing faces and threads belong on a machined part.
  • 3
    Do not mix the twoA print that passes a fit check still tells you nothing about fatigue.
Orientation

Build orientation is the single biggest lever

Every FDM part is anisotropic. The bond between two layers is weaker than the filament inside a layer, often by a wide margin, so the direction of the layer lines decides where the part will split. Lay a flat bracket on the plate so the layers stack along its thin axis and it will snap at the first load. Stand the same bracket on edge and the load runs along the filament instead.

Supports are the cost of that decision. A face that touches the build plate comes out clean and dimensionally tight. A face that hangs over open air needs support, and the surface under it will be rough enough to need sanding. Count the supported faces before you commit. Two is usually acceptable. Six is a warning sign that the part should be split or reoriented.

Round features behave differently again. A horizontal hole prints as a teardrop at the top because the plastic sags before it cools. Vertical holes stay round but carry staircase steps on the wall. For a bearing bore or a dowel pin, print the hole undersized and ream it to size, or leave stock and machine the bore afterward.

  • 1
    Keep layers off tensile pathsRun layer lines perpendicular to the pull direction, not along it.
  • 2
    Minimize supported facesEach supported face adds cleanup time and dimensional scatter.
  • 3
    Print critical bores undersizedLeave 0.2–0.3 mm of stock and ream or bore to final size.
Slicing

Layer height, walls, and infill in practice

Layer height is a trade, not a quality dial. A 0.2 mm layer prints roughly twice as fast as a 0.1 mm layer and shows visible steps on shallow curves. Dropping to 0.1 mm helps a cosmetic shell but does not fix a weak part. Strength comes from wall count and print temperature, not from finer layers.

Three perimeters is a reasonable floor for a functional prototype. Four or five if the part will be clamped, dropped, or handled daily. Below two perimeters the shell is mostly air, and any screw boss will crush. Infill above 30 percent adds time and material for very little stiffness gain. Most of the bending resistance sits in the walls.

Print speed and cooling matter more on tall thin sections. Slow the outer wall to about half the infill speed, and keep part cooling on for PLA. ABS and polycarbonate prefer a heated chamber and minimal cooling, or the layers will delaminate along the corners.

Slicer preview is your inspection tool. Step through the layers around every hole, boss, and snap fit. If the toolpath jumps or the wall thins to a single strand, fix the model before you print.

  • 1
    0.2 mm layersGeneral prototypes, brackets, and housings where speed matters.
  • 2
    0.1–0.15 mm layersVisible cosmetic surfaces and small text or fine detail.
  • 3
    3–4 perimetersFunctional parts that see handling or light structural load.
Process selection

Which print process fits which job

Match the process to the feature that matters most, not to the part size.

ProcessTypical toleranceBest forWatch out for
FDM±0.3 mm or ±0.5%Housings, brackets, jigs, fit checksLayer lines, weak Z bond, rough supports
SLA / DLP±0.1 mmFine detail, smooth skins, small featuresBrittle, UV aging, needs post-cure
SLS (nylon)±0.3 mmSnap fits, living hinges, small batchesGrainy surface, porous, absorbs moisture
Metal (DMLS)±0.1 mm plus finish stockComplex metal geometry, conformal channelsCost, distortion, needs support removal
CNC machining±0.005 mmSealing faces, threads, bearing fitsTool access, setup cost, lead time
Tolerance

Holes, threads, and clearances that actually fit

Printed holes come out smaller than drawn. The nozzle drags material inward, and the slicer's arc approximation rounds the profile. On FDM, add 0.2 mm to a hole diameter if you need a close slip fit, and test one hole before you commit the whole plate. Resin shrinks during cure, so the compensation runs the other way, and the amount depends on wall thickness.

For a press fit or a bearing seat, do not rely on the printer. Print the pocket undersized by 0.3 mm and finish it with a reamer or a boring bar. That single step moves the feature from an approximation to a real tolerance. Our machining cells hold ±0.005 mm on bores and faces when the printed prototype graduates to a production part.

Threads are the same story. Printed internal threads work for a light hand-tight assembly, but they strip under torque. Print a plain hole and cut the thread with a tap, or design a heat-set insert boss. Leave the boss wall at least 2 mm thick or it will split when the insert goes in.

Clearances between mating printed parts should start at 0.3 mm per side. Below that, elephant-foot bulge at the bottom layers will fuse the two parts together. Above 0.5 mm the assembly feels loose and rattles in a handheld product.

  • 1
    Hole compensationAdd 0.2 mm on FDM, subtract for resin shrinkage after cure.
  • 2
    Bearing seatsPrint undersized, then ream or bore to the final fit.
  • 3
    Mating partsStart at 0.3 mm per side and adjust from the first print.
Handoff

From printed prototype to a machined part

A printed prototype earns its keep when it answers a question: does the assembly go together, does the cable route clear, does the user's hand reach the switch. Once those answers are locked, the same geometry usually moves to CNC machining for the parts that carry load or seal. The model does not need to be rebuilt, but the tolerances, fillets, and surface finish do need a second pass.

Two changes come up on almost every handoff. First, printed parts hide generous radii and thick walls that a machined part cannot keep without extra tool time. Second, a printed boss that worked fine in nylon becomes a stress riser in aluminum with a sharp internal corner. Add a fillet at the base and open the corner radius to at least one third of the wall thickness.

We run both processes under one roof, so the print and the machined version can be compared side by side before the design freezes. A printability review comes back with the quotation, usually within 12 hours, and flags any feature that will not survive the transition.

  • 1
    Keep the modelThe print and the machined part share the same nominal geometry.
  • 2
    Revisit radiiSharp internal corners become crack starters in metal.
  • 3
    Compare bothPrint for fit, machine for function, then verify the assembly.
FAQs

Common questions on print settings and results

Why does my printed part break between layers?

The bond between layers is the weakest direction in FDM. If the part splits cleanly along a layer line, the load is running across the bond instead of along the filament.

Reorient the part so the layers stack perpendicular to the pull, raise the nozzle temperature by 5–10 °C within the filament's range, and reduce part cooling. If the geometry will not allow a better orientation, the part is a candidate for machining.

How much tolerance can I expect from a desktop printer?

A well-tuned FDM printer holds about ±0.3 mm, or ±0.5 percent on larger dimensions, whichever is greater. Resin printers do better on small features, near ±0.1 mm, but the number drifts with cure time and wall thickness.

Treat those numbers as a starting point. Measure the first article and adjust the model. Do not design a press fit around a printer's nominal tolerance.

Should I print a prototype or machine it directly?

Print when the question is about form, fit, or ergonomics, and when you need an answer in a day. Printing is also cheaper for a one-off shape with internal channels or organic geometry.

Machine when the question involves load, sealing, wear, or a real thread. Machining holds ±0.005 mm and gives you the material properties the production part will actually have.

What layer height should I use for a functional bracket?

Start at 0.2 mm. It prints fast and the layer steps do not affect a bracket's function. Spend the saved time on wall count instead, since stiffness comes from perimeters.

Drop to 0.1–0.15 mm only where the surface is visible or the feature is small. Finer layers do not make the part stronger and they roughly double the print time.

Do I need to compensate holes in the CAD model?

Only after you measure a test print. Print a small plate with holes from 3 mm to 10 mm, measure each one, and note the offset for that printer and material.

On FDM the offset is usually around 0.2 mm undersized. On resin it depends on shrinkage, so measure after full post-cure, not straight off the build plate.

Can a printed part be used as a production part?

Sometimes, when the load is low, the environment is mild, and the quantity is small. Housings, covers, and fixtures often ship as printed parts without a problem.

Anything that seals, bears load, or threads into metal should be machined. We can produce both from the same file so the transition stays simple.

Send the file and get a straight answer

Upload your STL or STEP. We will tell you whether it should be printed or machined, and quote it either way.

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