Second hand CNC machines: 6 checks before you commit
Used iron can cut your capital outlay, but the saving only survives if the machine still holds tolerance. This guide is for shop owners, engineers and buyers weighing used second hand CNC machines against sending the work out. You will get the checks that matter, the numbers to ask for, and the point where outsourcing wins.

In this article
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Key takeaways
Used machine versus outside machining
Read the row that matches your workload, then check the two columns against your own numbers.
| Situation | Buy second hand CNC machines | Send the work out |
|---|---|---|
| Fewer than 300 parts a year | Hard to justify: fixed cost per part stays high | Best fit: you pay only for the parts you need |
| One to three simple part families | Workable if geometry and spindle pass the checks | Still cheaper until volume settles |
| Tight ±0.005 mm work | Only with a documented test cut and reports | Standard capability at a qualified shop |
| No local service engineer | Downtime measured in weeks | No maintenance burden on your floor |
| Aluminium and plastics only | Low spindle hours, easier to inspect | Good match for short runs and prototypes |
| Hardened steel or Inconel | Rigidity and spindle condition decide everything | Thermal and load control handled by the supplier |
| Fast ramp on a new design | Programming and fixturing time lands on you | First articles often ship in days |
| Spare floor space and power | Useful if you already have 3-phase and rigging | No floor, power or rigging cost |
Why second hand CNC machines look cheaper than they are
The sticker price is the smallest number in the deal. A used vertical mill at 5,000 kg needs rigging, a low-bed trailer, a crane and a concrete pad rated for the load. Add a transformer if your supply is not matched, plus air, coolant and chip handling. That package often runs 20–40% of the purchase price, and it lands before the first part is cut.
Then comes the first breakdown. A spindle rebuild or a ball screw replacement on a discontinued model can take weeks and cost more than the machine was worth. Ask the seller for the last three years of service records. If they cannot produce them, price the machine as if the spindle is already tired.
Hourly cost is the number that decides. A used machine running 2,000 hours a year spreads its purchase and repair cost over real output. The same machine running 200 hours a year carries a heavy idle cost, and idle machines still leak money through floor space and maintenance.
Do not compare a used machine against a new one alone. Compare it against the quote you would get from an outside shop for the same parts. That is the only baseline that tells you whether ownership pays.
- 1Rigging and foundationCrane, transport, pad and levelling are never optional.
- 2Power and airCheck voltage, phase and air volume before you sign.
- 3ToolingHolders, collets and fixturing can cost as much as the machine.
- 4First-year repairsSet aside a reserve; worn machines fail early.
What to inspect on a used CNC machine before you pay
Start with geometry, not the control. Put a dial indicator on the table and sweep a 300 mm circle with a test bar in the spindle. Squareness error shows up as a mismatch between the X and Y readings. Ask for the number, not a verbal assurance. If the machine cannot cut a circle within 0.02 mm, no controller upgrade will save it.
Check backlash on each axis by approaching a position from both directions and reading the difference. On a healthy machine this is usually under 0.01 mm after compensation. Anything larger points to worn thrust bearings or a tired ball screw.
Spindle condition is the expensive one. Listen at full speed with no load, then run a warm-up cycle for 30 minutes and check for growth. Ask for a taper contact check with blueing. A taper that shows less than about 80% contact will not hold tool concentricity on finishing passes.
Ways and rails come next. On box ways, look for scoring and check oil flow at every metering point. On linear rails, check for brinelling and listen for rumble during rapid moves. Then run a test part and measure it against the drawing before you commit.
- 1Circle and square test300 mm sweep, compare X and Y readings.
- 2Backlash checkApproach from both sides, expect under 0.01 mm.
- 3Spindle warm-up30 minutes, watch thermal growth and noise.
- 4Test cutMeasure the part, do not trust a video.
Control, spares and service: the quiet deal breaker
A Fanuc or Siemens control with a wide installed base is easier to keep alive. Parts are stocked, forums exist, and local engineers know the ladder. A discontinued or obscure control turns every fault into a research project. If the seller cannot name the control model and its year, walk away.
Ask where the nearest service engineer sits and how long a call-out takes. If the answer is a flight, the machine needs a spare-parts kit on site: a drive, an encoder, a servo amplifier and the parameters backed up on a USB stick. Parameter loss on an old control can stop the machine for days.
Consumables matter too. Tool holders with a standard taper are cheap and available. A proprietary interface locks you into one supplier. Check the tool changer carousel for worn fingers and confirm the magazine count matches the work you plan to run.
Finally, check the paperwork. A machine with a maintenance log, a recent calibration and a clean electrical cabinet is a different asset from one with a fresh coat of paint over a leaking gearbox.
- 1Wide-installed controlFanuc or Siemens parts are easier to source.
- 2Local engineer distanceDrive time decides your downtime.
- 3Spares on the shelfKeep a drive, encoder and parameter backup.
- 4Standard tooling interfaceAvoid proprietary tapers and holders.
When second hand CNC machines are the wrong answer
Ownership adds work that never appears on a quote: programming, fixturing, tool setting, coolant changes, chip removal and inspection. On a two-person team, that time comes out of billable hours. If your parts change every few weeks, the setup burden eats the saving.
Precision is the other limit. Used machines can hold ±0.005 mm if the geometry is sound and the spindle is fresh, but proving that takes a documented test cut. Without it, you are buying a promise. For medical or aerospace work with traceability requirements, the inspection and documentation load usually belongs with a supplier who already runs it daily.
Volume changes the math. One prototype to 10,000+ part runs sit at opposite ends of the same decision. Below a few hundred parts a year, an outside shop wins on cost per part and on time to first article. Above that, with a stable part family and steady demand, ownership starts to pay.
There is a middle path. Keep a used machine for soft material and simple geometry, and send hard material, tight tolerance and finishing work out. That split keeps the capital low without carrying the risk of every demanding job.
- 1Unstable part mixHigh setup hours kill the saving.
- 2Traceable workCertificates and reports belong with a certified shop.
- 3Low annual volumeCost per part stays high on idle iron.
- 4Hybrid splitOwn the easy work, outsource the hard work.
Step by step: how to qualify a used machine
Run these in order. Each step can end the deal, which is the point.
- 1Get the maintenance file firstRequest service records, parameter backups and the last calibration report before you travel. No file, no visit.
- 2Sweep a 300 mm circleMount a dial indicator and test bar. Compare X and Y readings. Expect under 0.02 mm or ask for the repair cost.
- 3Measure backlash on every axisApproach the same position from both directions. Under 0.01 mm after compensation is healthy.
- 4Run a 30-minute spindle warm-upNo load, full speed. Log noise, vibration and thermal growth. Check taper contact with blueing, aim for about 80% or better.
- 5Cut a test part with your own fileBring your own program and material. Measure it against the drawing, not against the machine display.
- 6Check ways, oil and electricsLook for scoring, confirm oil reaches every metering point, open the cabinet and look for heat marks.
- 7Price the move and the first repairAdd rigging, power, tooling and a repair reserve. If the total beats the outside quote over two years, proceed.
- 8Confirm support before money movesName the engineer, the drive time, the spares kit and the parameter backup. Then sign.
Common questions
How much should I budget on top of the purchase price?
Plan for 20–40% of the machine price for rigging, foundation, power, air, tooling and commissioning. A spindle or ball screw repair in the first year is common on machines over ten years old, so keep a cash reserve separate from the purchase budget.
Can a used machine hold ±0.005 mm?
Yes, if the geometry is square, backlash is under 0.01 mm and the spindle taper shows good contact. The tolerance comes from the machine structure, not the control. Ask for a test cut measured against a drawing before you pay.
If the seller cannot produce that, treat the tolerance claim as unproven and price the risk in.
What control brand should I look for?
A widely installed control such as Fanuc or Siemens is easier to keep running. Parts are stocked, local engineers know the ladder, and parameters can be restored. Discontinued or proprietary controls turn a simple fault into a long wait.
How many parts a year justify buying a machine?
Below a few hundred parts a year, an outside shop usually wins on cost per part and on time to first article. Above that, with a stable part family and steady demand, ownership starts to pay back. Run the numbers on your own hourly rate.
What is the biggest mistake buyers make?
Buying on appearance. Fresh paint and a clean table tell you nothing about spindle condition or way wear. Bring your own dial indicator, your own program and your own material, and measure the result.
Can I split work between my own machine and an outside shop?
Yes, and it is often the safest route. Keep the used machine on soft material and simple geometry, and send hard material, tight tolerance and finishing work to a shop already set up for it.
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