3D Printing Troubleshooting: A Collection of All Problems and Solutions (FDM and SLA)
I think you have encountered many printing failures, such as printed part warping, print bed sticking, layer shifting and other 3D printing errors. Today, based on our 3D printer troubleshooting experience, Mohou.com has compiled the most comprehensive guide. Diagnose and resolve common 3D printing issues with FDM and SLA technology.
1. FDM 3D printing problem: nothing can be printed
1. Lack of consumables
Source all3dp (the following images come from the same source)
question:
Even if the template was set up correctly in the cutting software, nothing will print. Despite numerous attempts, nothing happened except a strange filament coming out of the nozzle. Or, mid-print of the model, the filament extrusion stops, but the nozzle continues to print in the air.
reason:
This is a glaring problem that cannot be ignored in many printers, especially those that encapsulate the filament in the printer design or hide it on the back. In this way, it is often not easy to find it when there is no thread.
Troubleshooting a 3D printer
Check the filament spool to see if any filament remains, if not a new spool has been loaded.
2. The nozzle is too close to the print bed
question:
The 3D printer is loaded with filament and the print head moves smoothly, but no filament is deposited on the print bed.
reason:
The nozzle may be too close to the print bed. If you adjust the print bed just a few microns from the nozzle opening, melted filament will be less likely to escape. Best case scenario, the print will lose the first layer and be more likely to not stick once the filament is extruded. In the worst case, melted filament can build up on the hot end, potentially causing a blockage.
3D printing troubleshooting: nozzle too close to print bed
Solution 1: Z-axis offset
It is often helpful to slightly increase the height of the nozzle. The system settings of most 3D printers allow you to set the Z-axis offset. To move the nozzle away from the print bed, you need to increase the offset to a positive value. This also works in reverse, where the negative offset helps solve the problem of prints not sticking to the bed.
But be careful, if the offset is too great, it will not stick to the platform.
Solution 2: Lower the print bed
Alternatively, if your printer allows it, you can achieve the same effect by lowering the print bed. This is a more inconvenient solution, however, as it requires recalibrating and leveling the print bed to achieve an even print.
3. Clogged nozzle
question:
You start a print job but no matter what you try, the nozzles produce no results. Removing the filament and reinserting it doesn’t work.
reason:
A small piece of filament remains in the nozzle after replacing the spool, usually because the filament is broken at the end. When a new filament is loaded, the old piece of filament left in the nozzle does not allow the new filament to pass through.
Some maintenance on your printer can significantly reduce the risk of problems, such as clogged nozzles that affect extrusion. In fact, you will often find that there is old, charred filament in the nozzle before a clog occurs. It may sit there for weeks or even months without you realizing it, but you will see some small signs of print quality.
Effects are often overlooked: such as small nicks on exterior walls, small spots of dark filament, or small variations in print quality between models. These flaws are often simply attributed to subtle changes in what we expect from a 3D printer, but there may actually be something more dangerous at work. A cleaning method called atomic drawing or cold drawing can solve this problem.
For example, if you frequently switch from PLA to ABS, you will often see this happening, where a small amount of PLA remains in the nozzle and is heated beyond its normal melting point. This could mean it will char and burn.
Again, go from ABS to nylon and you’ll see something similar again. It is not uncommon to see a brief puff of smoke as the new filament passes through.
3D Printing Troubleshooting: Clogged Nozzles
Solution 1: Unclog with a needle
Start by removing the filament. Then use your printer’s control panel (if you have one) to select the “heated nozzle” setting and increase it to the melting point of the stuck filament. You can also connect the printer to a computer running compatible control software and use the software to heat the nozzle. For PLA, set the temperature to 220°C. Once the nozzle reaches the correct temperature, use a small dowel to clear the hole (be careful not to burn your fingers). If your nozzle is 0.4mm, you will need a smaller needle; an airbrush cleaning kit works great.
Solution 2: Pass the old wire
If you find that the nozzle is still clogged, you can use another filament to pass the filament through. Start by removing the filament as before, then remove the feed tube from the print head. Heat the hot end of the PLA to 220°C and use another filament to push it from the top in an attempt to push the stuck filament out of the nozzle. Usually, if the new filament doesn’t unlock properly, a little extra pressure from your hands can do the trick. However, do not press too hard as this may bend the horizontal lever of the printer.
Once the ends are clean, pass a needle through the nozzle and clean off any excess filament with a brush.
Solution 3: Disassemble and rebuild the hot end
In extreme cases, when the nozzle is still clogged, you will need to remove the hot part. If you’ve never done this before, it’s a good idea to take notes and take pictures so you know where everything goes when you put it back together. Start by removing the filament, then check your printer manual for instructions on how to remove the hot end.
4. The print head moves away from the bed surface
question:
When a printhead misses the print bed, it usually also reaches the limits of its X or Y position. The noise can be caused by a slipping belt, ground gears, or by the printhead trying to to tear the sides of the printer as it attempts to extend beyond its farthest point.
In this state, your printer is unlikely to print correctly. Although it is easy to fix, it is not a problem that can be ignored or dealt with later.
reason:
Configuration errors, incorrect printer selection, and worn or damaged stops are all common problems.
If the problem starts with a new printer, it is likely a problem with the printer configuration. Run the setup process again and make sure your printer has the correct firmware version.
Accidentally selecting the wrong printer from the cutting program drop-down list can be a common cause of this 3D printing problem.
When setting up your printer, make sure you have specified the correct print volume in the printer firmware or through software. If the printer thinks they have a larger printing platform than they actually are, they will try to use it even if it’s not there.
If your printer is generally working fine and something suddenly happens, check your print preparation software first. Some content may have been reset or changed due to updates! It’s not uncommon for software to restore default settings or automatically select the latest version of the printer (even if it’s not the version you’re using).
If everything else seems fine, one of the printer’s terminals may have stopped working.
If this happens, everything can get very confusing.
3D Printer Troubleshooting: Print Head Not Touching Print Bed
Solution 1: Check if the slicer printer is correct
Before trying anything else, make sure you select the correct printer in your printing software. All printers are different, so even if two printers have the same print bed, the other dimensions and settings are unlikely to match exactly.
Solution 2: Update the Firmware
If you just purchased your printer and this problem occurs, make sure you have the latest firmware installed. After updating, run the setup process and check that all settings, especially the print area, are the correct size.
Solution 3: check the stop
This will require more effort to diagnose. Watch the print head move. If it attempts to go beyond the farthest point of one of its axes, check that the stop is not disconnected. If everything looks good (and none of the steps above fixed the problem for you), your next step should be to replace the stopper with a new one.
5. Broken wire
question:
The filament spool appears to be there and when you check, there appears to be filament in the feed tube, but nothing is coming out of the nozzle.
reason:
Caused by many problems, but mainly by old or cheap filaments. Even though most filaments, like PLA and ABS, are long-lasting, they can become brittle if left in poor conditions, such as direct sunlight. Once it’s in the printer, no adjustments will help.
Another issue is the filament diameter, which can vary between manufacturers and batches. Sometimes, if the tension tensioner is too tight, a part of the filament that still has a lot of life left can break under the pressure.
3D printing troubleshooting: filament breaks
Solution 1: Remove the filament
The first thing to do is to remove the filament from the printer in the usual way. Select maintenance and replacement materials. Since the filament usually breaks inside the tube, you will need to remove the tube from the extruder and hot end. Then heat the nozzle and remove the filament.
Solution 2: Try a different consumable
If this happens again after reloading the filament, use another filament to check if it’s not just the old fragile filament that needs to be dealt with.
Solution 3: Release tension on the tensioner
If the new filament breaks, check to see if the turnbuckle tensioner is completely loose and not overtightened. When printing begins, tighten until the filament stops sliding.
Solution 4: Check the Nozzle
Check if the nozzle is clogged and clean it thoroughly.
Solution 5: Check flow and temperature
If the problem persists, check that the hot part is heating and reaching the correct temperature. Also check that the filament flow rate is 100% and not higher.
6. Peel off the filament
question:
Any filament can come loose or slip at any point during the printing process. The result is that no filament is extruded from the hot end, causing the print to end abruptly.
reason:
Jamming, loose tensioner, incorrect hot side temperature, these are just some of the common causes, but they are usually easy to correct. The result of the problem is that the extruder’s knurled nut or gear is unable to pull or push the filament through the printer. The small gear teeth normally grip the filament and feed it into the system as the motor spins it, but they wear down until there is no more clamping force and the The gear and the filament slip.
3D Printing Troubleshooting: Filament Peeling
Solution 1: Supply system assistance
If the filament is just starting to slip, you can usually tell by the sound and appearance of plastic shavings, then apply light pressure to the filament to help it pass through the system. This usually allows the machine to print again without problems.
Solution 2: Adjust the tensioner tension
First loosen the idler pulley, insert the filament and tighten until it stops slipping. Filaments vary in diameter, so while the roller will accommodate some diameter differences, some filaments will require fine adjustments.
Solution 3: Remove the filament
In most cases, you will need to remove and replace the filament and then send it back through the system. After removing the filament, cut it below the area showing signs of slippage and put it back into the system. If the filament breaks, it may be past its optimal state. Try again, if it breaks again and you notice the filament seems brittle, discard it and use another filament.
Solution 4: check the temperature of the hot part
If you just inserted a new filament when the problem started, check that the temperature is correct.
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